I probably should have checked the weather; however, after being cooped up in the house for several weeks [^1], I grabbed my pack and headed south. A nice hike or a small mountain peak would be just what the doctor ordered.
The rain started as I neared the black ridge, and when I finally turned off at Leeds, UT, I had vague plans of heading to Red Cliffs and re-climbing one of the two sandstone peaks in the park. The more I thought about hiking up a ravine on sandstone in the rain, the less it sounded like a good idea. Before I reached the end of town, I turned around and drove the frontage road to UT-17, through Toquerville, and on toward UT-9 and Zion National Park.
It was getting close to noon, and frankly, I was probably driven as much by the thoughts of lunch at Oscars [^2] as I was by the National Park; however, with the cloud cover and soft rainfall, I fully expected to drive through the park and perhaps take a short hike along one of the maintained trails in the park.
The park had to rebuild the Emerald Pools loop trail a few years ago after a rocky landslide removed a large section, and I have wanted to hike along the base of Lady Mountain for some time. So when I realized the parking lot was half empty at the trailhead, I quickly exited and gathered my gear. The temperature isn't cold, so a lightweight jacket and hiking sticks were all I decided to take.
Emerald Pools is one of the few wheelchair-accessible paths in this rugged mountainous area. Unfortunately, because of its easy grade and cement pathway during the summer months, the trail contains bumper-to-bumper human traffic leading to the nickname "freeway trail." No such traffic walks across the bridge today, and I stop to enjoy a break in the clouds revealing Angels Landing.
The freeway turns right, and I turn left toward the steeper loop section. The section in front of me is the repaired branch of the trail, and for several years, I would skirt the ribbons and signs [^3] to climb Lady Mountain. The track is muddy, slick, and steeper than I remember; however, the views of wet sandstone, green trees, and abundant waterfalls take my breath away.
Few people are slogging the mud with me, opting instead for the cement pathway; however, I pass three people on my trek as the trail leads north along the top of the first cliff band above the river. As I reach the stream's edge, I realize why so few people are completing the loop. A strong water current runs across the slick rock and disappears over the falls into Emerald pools. I look for alternatives before charting the least exposed path through the moving water. My hiking poles help, and the water is deep enough to crest the top of my waterproof boots. It is cold.
I debate for only a moment as I turn and begin the 0.3-mile detour toward the Upper Emerald Pool. The path has seen significant improvement since my last visit; however, the stream coming out of Heaps canyon prevents a close inspection. As a result, what would generally be a sandy beach is drenched with spray, and I shelter behind one of the big rocks to enjoy the show.
To finish the loop, I hike around and under the falls, following the maintained trail before connecting with the cemented freeway trail.
Thankfully, the temperature is warm enough that no ice exists along the path. Stopping behind the more significant downfalls, I admire the rushing water and take a short video to send to family and friends.
The clouds have lifted significantly, and a few light rays catch Angels Landing and Observation point as I stand on the bridge again. It felt like early evening; however, my musings and strolling took barely two hours. I'm reminded that often it is potentially unpleasant experiences that provide the most significant rewards in nature.
Written January 8, 2023
Footnotes
Of my own volition. I was working on my Obsidian brain, finally getting all the puzzle pieces to fit.
Oscars Restaurant in Springdale, UT
One could bypass the ribbons and posters with the Parks' blessing if they were climbing Lady Mountain.