Note: In attempting to put together a list of my favorite hikes in and around Zion for a friend, I noticed that I had dozens of unpublished trip reports that I had written but never posted. This trip report is from July 13, 2014.
"We are already behind schedule," I said to my friends as we continued to wait at the junction of UT-17 and UT-9 in La Verkin. Lady Mountain is not the kind of summit one wants to do in July unless you get an early start. With an early morning start, you can be halfway up the mountain's east-facing slope before the sun rises over Cable and Deertrap Mountain; once the sun is up, it pounds the pitch with heat. Therefore, arriving at the high saddle is essential before it gets too hot. Unfortunately, we were already running late. A last-minute addition of one experienced climber and two beginners kept us waiting at the junction. By the time we parked our cars, we were running to catch a shuttle for the ride to the sleepy Zion Lodge. As the shuttle wound its way toward the trailhead, I looked out the window; the sun was already hitting the upper slopes of Lady Mountain. Not good.
I was the only group person with experience on Lady Mountain. It is by far my favorite scramble in Zion National Park. Combining (for me anyway) that perfect combination of risk/reward where small technical sections add the risk and standing on this iconic summit supplies the prize. Our group of 6 made our way across the bridge, following the path to emerald pools. Just past the bridge, we turned left and skirted around the "trail closed" sign. This section of the Emerald Pools Trail sustained severe damage during a slide several years ago, and apparently, the park is not planning on repairs anytime soon. The backcountry desk allows access to Lady Mountain via the closed path. Once past the slide, follow the old (no longer maintained) trail to an information sign just above the first cliff band. Ironically the information sign describes a rock slide that occurred on the opposite side of the canyon many years ago.
Finding the trailhead for Lady Mountain is half the battle. Stand at this information sign and look north down the trail. Poking into the path on the left-hand side is a Juniper Tree. Proceed to this point and turn hikers left up the wash onto the hillside. A dozen trails exist among the trees, but they all merge into one path within a few hundred feet. This combined path is the Lady Mountain Trail; follow it through trees and switchbacks until the track comes to an abrupt end at the cliff band.
Look up through a section of rock for yellow and red arrow markers; these markers will be your guides for the remainder of the climb.
Working our way past the first cliff band, we continue to climb the well-worn path; stunning views of Mountain of the Sun, Angles Landing, and all the prominent canyon peaks are beautiful in the morning sun. We are less than a third of the way up the face when we walk into the rising sun.
We are taking our breaks in the shade within a few hundred feet.
Staying hydrated, I'm already beginning to doubt my water supplies. I instructed everyone to bring 5 liters of water per person, two frozen to stash along the way. As we sit for our morning break, I realize; that in our hurry to catch the shuttle, I am 1 liter short, having left my frozen liter in the car. I'm usually a solo hiker, and if this number of errors had occurred on any hike by myself, I would have turned back by now. I follow a strict 3-strike rule, and I'm done hiking for the day when I hit the third strike. The others in the group indicate they have plenty of water, and enough to share, so we continue.
The first technical section is rated 5.4 with a blind overhead boulder move. There are good holds deep on the overhang and a bolt at the bottom to belay. It's not a significant move, but there is plenty of exposure for missteps. Our most experienced climber easily crosses the crux and sets up a belay station just above the boulder on a well-anchored eyelet. Sharing harnesses, I help the newer people get set up and climb through the obstacle. It takes way too much time.
It is now hot. We continue to move horizontally across the face above the high section of cliff bands. There is some exposure, but we have a good trail and are making good time. A dead tree across the path marks our turning point and arrival at the second obstacle. A 12' off-width crack rated 5.7. Again our experienced climber is first, belay set up, but we struggle with this section in getting everyone up and over.
I assure everyone that at least we will be out of the sun for a while as we drop our rope, harnesses, and a liter of semi-frozen water. This section of the hike is usually in the shade, but we are too late in the day, and it is now full of sun. The area is called One Thousand Steps, and it is just that, a series of rock steps along a buttress; it is relentless in its ascent. Finally, I boink and hit a massive brick wall of no energy (I quickly blame yesterday's hike through Water Canyon). I tell the others to go on, sit behind a bush for shade and reach into my pack for some energy cubes. I rest a bit and let the cubes take hold. Rising again, I catch up with the group, who have hunkered down in the shade of the buttress.
We are more than two-thirds the way up the mountain, and it is decision time. The group had done a hydration review, and it wasn't good. Three members of the group were down to a liter each. I didn't have much more than that; the other two members who had correctly prepared for the climb had stashed one liter already and had three more liters. So we decided to drop everything except a bottle of water each, and if that took us to the summit, then fine; if not, we would turn back at that time.
Thankfully, we were closer than I thought and broke onto the high saddle in short order. After following the ridge line to the famous "sundial" point, we are all exhausted. Lee and Amy share their water, and we absorb the views. Storm clouds are moving in, and a few drops fall on us. The sun is behind the clouds, and the temperatures have dropped noticeably. We enjoy the summit.
Turning back, we sip and share water down the mountain. The liter of frozen water never tasted so good as we each get a swallow or two. Walking back along the trail, we had all spent long hot moments talking about dropping into the Virgin River upon our return, but for now, the water station just outside of Zion Lodge grill area is all that occupied our minds. I've been in the early stages of dehydration before, and thankfully we were never in trouble, just thirsty, but on arrival, I managed to drink 2 liters of water. Later at dinner, I would drink a third liter of water, one large bottle of Gatorade, and a diet coke. Later that night, I would wake up twice to drink two more liters of water. Lady Mountain is still my favorite scramble in the park, but I might decide only to climb her in late fall or early spring. Of course, that depends on if I get any other offers during other times of the year; I'm always ready to climb the Lady.