It’s a beautiful fall day as I pack the Fj and head south toward Zion National Park. I’m hoping because we are past Labor Day Holiday, and it is a Friday morning that traffic will be light in the canyon. The park has recently re-opened Angels Landing, and I try to reach the summit of this classic climb at least every couple of years, my last peak being on 12/8/ 2017. Unfortunately, Angels Landing has grown in popularity since I first reached the summit and even more since I started recording my ascents in 1995. Crowded doesn’t even begin to describe the hours-long wait when the park is required to set up queuing stations at the base of the trail. But I’m hoping today will be slow by comparison, if not I have several back-up hikes planned.
My hopes are soon crushed as parking "lot is full" signs start to appear, and I note the overflowing shuttle buses moving through Springdale. The park entrance has long lines as I jockey toward the right-hand lane. I spot a park ranger standing near the employee entrance, signaling for anyone with a national park pass. I quickly cut over the additional path and pull-up beside her. A quick check of my credentials, and I'm on my way.
There's a small wait at the tunnel, and I'm feeling good about getting through at good speed. The small parking lot and the overflow parking lot are both filled. I'm quickly running out of options when a car pulls out of a spot near the small tunnel entrance. This is a beautiful section of the park. I've hiked this area a lot over the years. It's accessible, but the upper part is only available if you can walk on very steep slick rock. I get my pack and drop down the trail into the quiet solitude of Pine Creek.
I move through the sandy creek bottom, turning left toward the narrow confines of a small slot canyon market by a massive pine tree. In this section of Pine Creek, on my last visit, I took a picture of an enormous log jam across the opening. The jam is between the rocky face of the canyon and the sandy bank on the opposite side. The tree was at least 3 feet in diameter, and I figured I would have to hike around this obstruction for years to come. I marvel at the fact the tree is no longer present.
Moving onto the slickrock, I stop and take a few breaths. Other than the hum of traffic, I hear nothing else. The traffic noise will soften the higher I climb, and I still am struck even with all my years of hiking in Zion National Park, the pure, rugged beauty of this place and the relative quiet of the park. It doesn't take long to lose oneself in this backcountry.
At the ridgeline, I see a hiker making their way down the opposite side of the hill. It's the first and only person I will see today on my trek. I pick up the path and hike toward the high plateau to the south. Arriving at the base of Lost Peak, I angle toward the saddle between Lost Peak and Lost Teton. I have reached the summit of both peaks in the past and opt today for a more circular route. My journey will take me around the southern tip of Lost Teton and back to my parked car via the canyon to the west. It's a modified version of a hike to the summit of Jenny Peak.
I eat lunch on a hoodoo near the summit of Hidden Dragon. A small unranked peak whose name has all but disappeared from the Beta for this area. If you stand on the summit of Jenny Peak and use a little imagination, the form of a massive dragon appears with the hoodoos and crags forming wings and structure. It's a beautiful sight.
I continue east, working toward the canyon head when I reach an impasse. I'm on a small rise to the east of the canyon when I realize my mistake of taking the high road vs. the low road to the canyon. I hike off the northern face and look for a way to descend into the canyon along this side. I make a few attempts, but I know the likelihood of finding such a route is small to none. After about an hour, I decide to move higher and hike around Lost Teton and back to my awaiting car.
This walk is predominately Slickrock, which I love to hike, and I find various pockets of Moki marbles, some of which are very large. I move closer to Lost Teton to avoid another slot canyon and traverse across the head and back to my original route.
The setting sun has changed the angle of light hitting the leaves, and it is breathtaking as I walk back along Pine Creek. I didn't get a chance to hike Angels Landing again this year, but it doesn't matter to me. Anywhere in this beautiful park, you can sense the touch of angels.