We didn't have any of the kids home for Christmas this year, and thank goodness, after reading about the thousands of canceled flights and long delays due to weather. Each year as we discuss Christmas holiday plans, my comment is always the same, "lets get together in June or July when we don't have to worry about the weather and nobody else is traveling?" Yesterday, on our family video call, I heard echoes of the sentiment, especially now that the grandchildren are old enough to recognize the holiday as something special they deserve to wake up in their beds, not grandma's spare bedroom. I agree wholeheartedly.
It's December 26, and I put my backpack into the Jeep. I don't have plans; however, I know I need to get out of the house, even for a short drive. Generally, a short drive for me means south and either the rugged desert peaks of Gold Butte National Monument or the towering sandstone cliffs of Zion National Park. However, as I approach the industrial loop turnoff for I-15, I decide at the last second to continue west as a vague plan begins to formulate.
Ninety two miles due west of my current location is Caliente, Nevada. Founded in 1901, (1) Caliente was initially called "Calientes," Spanish for "hot," and referenced the hot spring native to the area. (2) In 1905, the Union Pacific Railroad completed the Caliente subdivision, a 242-mile stretch from Las Vegas, Nevada, to Milford, Utah, (3) constructing a large train depot in Caliente using the architecture style of an old Spanish mission. (4) The large depot now houses city and county offices and displays historical information regarding the area; however, the size is disproportionate for a town that never exceeded 5,000 residents, and based on the 2010 censuses, Caliente holds the honor of "least populated incorporated city in Nevada." (5)
Caliente also represents the connecting location for Union Pacific's Clover Creek Segment and Meadow Valley Wash Segment. US-93 connects with NV-317 in Caliente, and it is NV-317 that I plan on following through the Meadow Valley Wash south of Caliente today, following the railroad along the roughly 80-mile stretch of track. (6)
I stop in Caliente to fill my gas tank before turning south on NV-317. Meadow Valley Wash is also home to Kershaw Ryan Nevada State Park, and I loop in a short distance to get a feel for the surroundings. The State Park occupies a large side canyon and contains camping and hiking trails, and I'll have to make a point of spending a night or two here next year.
Meadow Valley Wash is stunning as the road follows the rail line through the canyon. Tunnels and bridges abound, and I occasionally stop to take pictures and admire the construction of the subdivision. Then, all too quickly, I reach the end of the paved road and the Elgin Schoolhouse, a historic site donated to the State of Nevada by the Bradshaw family, which restored the landmark school initially built by Ruben Bradshaw for the education of local rancher children. (7) The historical site was closed, and I debated about turning around and heading home.
Consulting my map, I traced the backcountry road CR-4230, crossing onto the Carp-Elgin road, which skirts the Mormon Mountains Wilderness before connecting with I-15 south of Mesquite, Nevada. I've hiked a few peaks in the Mormon Mountain Wilderness area, and I can't resist the opportunity to explore more of the remote and extremely rugged area.
The roads are maintained gravel; however, the sheer number of side routes creates a dangerous situation for the uninitiated. A Map, compass, GPS, and the ability to use all of the above are necessary to avoid getting lost in this remote desert area.
I pass a couple of additional vehicles on my three-hour tour of the Carp-Elgin byway, occasionally stopping to collect GPS coordinates and take pictures of intersections for the ATV-OHV trails and the few allowable access roads into the wilderness area. Then, connecting with the paved frontage road, I follow the asphalt trail south to exit 100 and merge into busy holiday traffic northbound on I-15.
I had forgotten the hustle and bustle of the season as I negotiated around the traffic. So instead, I prepared myself for the long 90-minute trip back home, completing a fantastic road trip through some of the most rugged and beautiful backcountry I've seen, even in this part of the world.
Written January 12, 2023
Footnotes:
Caliente, Nevada. (2022, December 12). In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliente,_Nevada
Ibid
http://www.trainweb.org/brettrw/uprr/calientesub/calientesub.html
Caliente, Nevada. (2022, December 12). In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliente,_Nevada
Ibid
http://www.trainweb.org/brettrw/uprr/calientesub/mvw.html
Information was obtained from a placard placed at the Elgin site.