Temperature migration has begun. As things heat up to triple digits in Southern Utah desert parks, I start my trek north looking for higher elevation and cooler temperatures. Watching the weather report, Zion National Park is expecting a high of 97 degrees today. Cottonwood Mountain, with a height of 9118' will reach 72.

Sitting on the northwest corner of the Cedar City Ranger District, Dixie National Forest has closed the entire Cottonwood Mountain to motor vehicles. It includes several trails: Mineral Canyon trail 32046; Mineral Willow Trail 32001; Willow Trail 32036; Mineral Canyon Trail 32046; Cottonwood Mountain trail 32017, and Bear Valley Willow Trail 32031. These trails are used "mainly by hunters and horseback riders, but do offer excellent hiking for those who don't like crowds." A route to the summit of Cottonwood Mountain is a combination of trails 32031, 32036 & 32017.

Take Exit 82 off I-15, heading south toward Paragonah and turn east at the first main road (about 1/2 mile). This dirt road will pass some hay barns before angling north along the base of the mountains. Heading up the canyon, follow the signs for Bear Valley. The drive is beautiful along a well-maintained dirt road. Bear Valley is stunning, and Little Creek Peak is breathtaking on the eastern horizon.

Bear Valley Willow Trail 32031 is marked, and a small grass-covered parking area resides directly behind and to the left of the trailhead sign. The trail leads straight west up the wash. The elevation gained quickly, but this class 1 path is easy to follow through the trees and underbrush to the first saddle. Void of trees, the high point, offers a beautiful view of Cottonwood Mountain to the west. Elephant Rock summit is above the ridgelines to the south, and this saddle serves as the junction for the route.

The trail passes across barren rock, before entering an alpine feel of aspen trees and juniper. Before reaching the bottom of the wash, a large rock outcropping appears on the hikers' right (north) side of the trail. Soon a junction sign is spotted and turning right follow the faint trail back toward the rock outcropping along a creek—the trail spiders into a dozen paths that cross the stream at various places. I followed several before realizing from the TOPO that I was way off-trail—dropping back to the creek, a faint trail through some trees could be seen, I picked up the path again headed north. This trail follows the water and is on the EAST side of the rock outcropping.

Aspen trees, streams and rocky outcroppings

Continue north, elevation gains are achieven and the path leads toward the head of the wash. The trail suddenly enters a small valley and the first good view of the Cottonwood Mountain summit. The mountain has dense vegetation, and I became very concerned about having to push my way to another summit. Having just completed a series of bush-covered peaks, I was looking forward to "trail" hiking my way to the top. The small valley rises to another saddle and stunning views north open to my eyes. A cairn marks the rise, and I look for it, but can't find the trail marker for 32017, leading to the summit. A faint trail follows the ridge, and I make my way through some of the trees surrounding the area. Reaching a clearing, I spot a well-traveled path leading up the ridgeline and follow suit. The trail is steep, but the footing is sound. Trees thin in areas offering stunning views into Bear Valley and beyond.

The summit of Cottonwood Mountain is less than stellar. Large Gamble Oak trees cover the summit cairn and block the view, but just past the summit area headed west, a meadow offers views, and several breaks in the Gamble trees provide an excellent look south. A summit cairn and registration jar exist. Not frequently signed, the registration is ten years old, and less than a dozen signatures are in place.

Down hiking the trail is a breeze, and excellent time back to the small valley.

At the first saddle once again, I set my eye on the Elephant Rock summit. A faint trail leads south up the hillside, and I follow the steep path. Not quite a trail, more than likely a game trail, it leads first up, then across the western hillside to the large rock that gives the hill, a namesake. I climb to the top, which offers terrific views north, east, and south. The prominent summit of Elephant Rock seems within easy striking distance. After taking pictures, I watch a pair of Falcons cruise the area. One appears to be a minor as its wings beat a steady (and sloppy) beat to keep up with the adult who floats on thermals. I might be close to their nest, given the level of noise they are making. Dropping off the rock, I continue to hike along the game trails to the summit of Elephant Rock. Twice I spook Sage Grouse, but the only one that takes flight, and I watch, hoping to see the Falcon drop in for a 200 mph meal, but the pair must not be hungry or are nervous with me in the area.

Elephant Rock summit is clear of trees, and beautiful views exist at all points of the compass. A substantial summit cairn survives, but I couldn't find a registration jar. A few rifle shells lay on the ground, and I suspect this makes a gentle elevated rise for hunters to watch the game in the valleys and ridges below. I eat a late snack and enjoy the view. The entire route I took to the Cottonwood Mountain summit can be followed (not seen) through the various ridges and washes. Cottonwood Mountain is breathtaking in its size when viewed in its entirety. A few more pictures and I hike back to the saddle. A short hike back through the trees, and I arrive at the trailhead and my awaiting car. Looking across Bear Valley, I marvel once again at the rugged peak of Little Creek Peak. I'll be back in this area as soon as possible.

Rocky outcropping that gives Elephant Rock its name