I slept like a rock last night; the trailer was cold and quiet. With the temperatures dropping, I no longer need to run the fan to suck in the outside air; in fact, it was cold enough to sleep with the windows closed all night. As I look out the window, the sun is just touching the western ridgeline. There is a bluebird sky and not a cloud in sight. It's going to be a beautiful day.
I arrive at the trailhead for Escalante Natural Bridge at about 9:00 am. The parking lot is full, and cars line the highway. The trailhead serves at least five different trails depending on the direction and length of travel. The shortest route is 100 hand pictographs and various other petrographs along the upper bench; I'll hike it tomorrow. If you follow the river east (downstream), you can access Maverik and Phipps Arches trails.
Further down is Bowington Arch Trail, and after 70 miles is Lake Powell. Following the river west (upstream) is Escalante Natural Bridge, Natural Arch, canyons, and eventually Escalante (15 miles). I find a parking spot, grab my pack and head west toward Escalante Natural Bridge.
The Escalante River flows year-round and has cut a deep path through the surrounding sandstone formations. The high ridgeline is currently blocking the sun as I drop from the parking lot to the river. The first crossing is not far, and a family of five sits on the river bank. I comment that the water looks deep, more than I expected, and the family responds with a simple: "We were hoping for more rocks." I was expecting water, so I drop into the stream, boots, and all. The water is cold but short-lived as I cross to the other side. Tall grasses grow along the trail among towering cottonwood trees, and the play of light through leaves on the water is mesmerizing as I move along the path.
The trail is deep sand, as one would expect it to be in a flood plain, but the path is well-traveled, and only spiders occasionally to take advantage of various crossings. A mother and daughter group is already returning as I approach another river ford. They were walking across the parking lot as I searched for a spot to park; I commented that they were fast hikers. "Only to the bridge and back," they said, catching one final hike before heading home. Looking up, I could see the arch on the ridgeline, and based on the direction of the trail; I could guess where the bridge rested.
A large cottonwood log rests along the river bank at the base of Escalante Natural Bridge. It is stunning, as I pull my pack and take a seat. Two other hikers are enjoying the view when a third group emerges from beneath the bridge. Jokingly I ask if the scene was better from underneath? The response caught me off guard when he said, "most beautiful thing I ever saw." That got my attention, so I dropped into the river once again to hike underneath. It is challenging to explain beauty, and thankfully some of my pictures turned out good but seeing the majesty of nature in this secluded setting creates a reverence all its own.
I linger under the bridge, laying on the flat rocks to avoid a kink in my neck, and eat a snack. Soon it is time to move on, and I cross the river once again. I'm fascinated by this river environment, and I want to further explore to the next arch; as I hike along the path, a vital junction occurs near the arch base. I could not find anything that would warrant such a heavily traveled trail breaking off from this area's main track in my research. I decided to look, and I was delighted to see cliff dwellings high on the wall, near the arch; made of natural stone, they blend so well into the cliffside surroundings that the place is all but impossible to see. In excellent condition, I was happy to have taken the time to explore the side trail.
Continuing west along the Escalante River, I decided to hike up Sand Creek canyon, a tributary entering the north side's river basin. There is water flowing in this canyon, and the trail is not as well-traveled. I soon get tired of the problematic crossings and decide to turn around. I've already hiked considerably further than I expected to walk today, but I'm convinced that I would love to backpack the Escalante tributary all the way to the town of Escalante in the future.