East Reef & UNP 3900 via Little Purgatory and Historic Babylon Trails

Storm clouds are moving around the mountains here in Cedar City, as I spend some time first thing this morning on the computer.  What has become a regular habit since the outbreak of 2019-nCoV or COVID-19.  A coronavirus first "identified by Chinese authorities"[1] that has spread to a global pandemic.  As a financial advisor, it has made my life hectic, as board chair for our local hospital, the crisis takes on a whole new meaning.  I was looking for a place to get away from all the news for a few hours and settled on the short drive to Red Cliffs National Conservation Area and the unnamed, but ranked peak of 3900.  East Reef peak should be a bonus ascent as it sits along the trail.

Established in 1996 the Red Cliffs National Conservation Area is a "multi-jurisdictional land base" set up to help "protect populations and habitat of the threatened Mojave Desert tortoise" and other species and plant life that is native to the area.[2]  The conservation district hosts over "130 miles" of multi-use hiking trails, generally allowing for any non-motorized passage.  Including horses, bikes, and hikers.

Exiting the southbound I-15 freeway and the Leeds exit, I turn left and then right toward the Conservation Area.  Make no mistake; although it is close to urban centers, this area is rugged and exists in a "desert environment" with few amenities.  The pavement soon ends, and a rutted sandy road takes over.  The passage can be difficult, but I notice many two-wheel drive vehicles in the area.  Passing the Toquerville Mine and Sand Mountain trailheads, I arrive at my destination, the Babylon Trailhead.

Early Mormon settlers named these areas after their Christian background, but if one visits this place in the summer, they can appreciate names like "Little Purgatory."  There are several off-road vehicles parked in the small 2-3 car parking as I angle my Fj into position so as not to block any other car.  I can hear the group returning along the trail, as I make preparations for my short hike.  The weather is pleasant, and I don't plan on hiking for more than a couple of hours, so I leave the 3rd water bottle in the jeep.  Hiking poles in hand, I step over the low fenced trailhead and start down the path.

I greet my fellow hikers, and one points out the petroglyphs on the solid rock face near a stream.  I thank him for pointing them out.  I wasn't aware of any in the area, and more than likely would have walked right past them as they are several feet above and behind a rocky point.   Petroglyphs images are carved by "removing part of the rock surface"[3] and are relatively common in the area, I enjoy seeing them, but I don't hunt them out as many hikers do.

Petroglyphs images

Petroglyphs images

Reaching the first juncture, I turn left and follow the East Reef trail to a small saddle.  As I catch my breath, I check my GPS and note that I am currently standing near the East Reef summit. 

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The East Reef is a beautiful elongated hill of multi-colored clay and rock.  The clay surface is exceptionally fragile, but a well-worn game trail leading up from this saddle to the ridgeline is present right in front of me.  I hike up the game trail to the rocky ridgeline and climb the few hundred feet to the summit.  The view is stunning in it's color with the backdrops of sand and green along the Virgin River to the south.

East Reef summit

East Reef summit

East Reef summit view south

East Reef summit view south

I move back off the summit and follow the trail back to the junction.  This time I follow the Historic Babylon trail north to another juncture with the Little Purgatory trail.  Little Purgatory is the trail that will take me up the mountainside and close to the unnamed peak 3900.  No footprints are on the path, but it is worn enough to follow without much effort.  Near the top, cliff-bands make the trail more difficult to follow, but cairns mark the way as the trail zig-zags toward the high rolling plateau.  Once I reach the plateau, I stop for a snack.  The ascent has taken longer than I thought as I finish off my first bottle of water. I follow the trail for a little while further before cutting across the rolling hills heading toward 3900.

Little Purgatory trail view of East Reef peak

Little Purgatory trail view of East Reef peak

Unnamed peak 3900 is a very non-descript brown knoll with beautiful views in all directions.  A rocky outcrop marks the summit, but I didn't notice any summit cairn or registration.  I eat the last of my snacks, take pictures, and head back toward the trail.  Little Purgatory trail connects with  the Historic Babylon trail to form a loop back to the trailhead, so I decide to complete the circuit. Connecting with the path again, I follow it north along the ridge.  I begin to worry that I am heading so far north, but checking the GPS puts me squarely on the trail.  It soon turns east, and I connect with the Historic Babylon trail, which turns south again.

UNP 3900 summit view west toward Pine Valley Mountains

UNP 3900 summit view west toward Pine Valley Mountains

The Historic Babylon trail is stunning as it follows a cliff band along a gorge of rough rock and brush.  The path cuts along the northern side the trail follows the canyon until a crossing is possible.  I follow along, stopping from time to time to take pictures and finally finishing my last bottle of water.  I'm grateful that the day is overcast, as the loop has taken me longer to complete than anticipated.  In the heat of the summer, I would be in serious trouble without considerably more water. 

Historic Babylon Trail

Historic Babylon Trail

At exactly the 5 hour mark, I turn off my GPS tracking having arrived back at the trailhead.   It is dusk now, and the clouds create just enough breaks to allow the sun to reach some of the peaks which surround me.  The Pine Valley peaks are the most stunning, still, snow-capped with wisps of clouds dancing among the spires.  Social-distancing has its perks, after all.

Pine Valley Mountains

Pine Valley Mountains

[1] “Coronavirus.” Centers for Desease Control and Prevention: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 15 Feb. 2020, www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/types.html.

[2] “Programs: National Conservation Lands: Utah: Red Cliffs NCA.” Utah - Red Cliffs NCA / Bureau of Land Management, 14 Feb. 2020, www.blm.gov/programs/national-conservation-lands/utah/red-cliffs-nca.

[3] “Petroglyph.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 20 Mar. 2020, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroglyph.